Part 1 Uglich, the Golden Ring, hotels and restaurants.

The history of the city has been connected with the death of the last ancient Rurik dynasty heir, Dmitry, the son of Ivan the Terrible,  at the age of 8.

Nothing of such scale has happened in Uglich since then. As one of my colleagues remarked, "They(Uglichans) seem to still remain under the impression of the death of the prince Dmitry. "

The Transfiguration Cathedral 

The whole "accident" happened on 15th of May, 1591 in Uglich, since, after Ivan the Terrible's death,  Prince Dmitry with his mother and a wet-nurse had been sent away from Moscow by the boyar Boris Godunov, a claimant to the Russian throne then.  Boris Godunov has still been suspected to have ordered the assassination of Prince Dmitry.



On that day Uglichans heard the bell tolling, the witnesses said they thought the town was on fire and ran to the Uglich Kremlin. There they saw people running around with knives, iron sticks. There was a slaughter of Godunov's servants by the local residents.  Tsaritsa (Dmitry's mother) made a statement her son had been stabbed with a knife. That's the way Ilya Glazunov sees the death of Dmitry.

The mob of Uglich residents having heard the bell toll came to the site of the murder. Dmitry's mother pointed at the murderers whom the mob killed immediately and threw their corpses away.

Russian law has always been flexible, Russian history proves it vividly. The official investigation carried out by Godunov's  associates substantiates this view.  Dmitry's mother testifying he had been stabbed, was forced to go into a convent, while his wet-mother, Zhdanova Irina confirming the same, disappeared after being sent for further investigation to Moscow.  The official investigation, however, stated that Dmitry suffered epileptic seizure resulting in falling on a knife and stabbing himself accidentally.

It vaguely reminds me of something... Oh, Basmanny Court (Khodorkovsky's case), Khamovnichesky Court (Pussy Riot) in Moscow.

Most churches and monasteries have already been renovated. Some have not.

 Alekseevsky Monastery, 

Assumption Day Church 1628

the one with green domes is of 1681, John the Precursor Church

The view of what used to be the Uglich's Kremlin.  It's the actual center of the town.

the local hydroelectric power station, very impressive 

the embankment in front of the Volzhskaya Riviera hotel

 men fishing 

Hotels and eating out in Uglich.

Uglich deservedly boasts good opportunities for tourists' accommodation. You will certainly  enjoy staying at one of them within the price range of 25 to 250 dollars.

If you want to tighten the purse strings you can go to the Uglich at 25 dollars/ double. It's a soviet era bleak building with depressively ugly rooms. They are trying to make it warm and clean but it can't be helped. The corridor, the bed linen, the furniture give the impression of desperate poverty. The rooms have the toilets and showers.

Some people are not that sensitive, though. On the bright side, they may find it exotic. On top of that you'll get an excellent opportunity to go to a local disco on the first (ground) floor of the hotel, or at least listen to music pumping outside all night.  And Russian pop music can exercise a most trained and experienced ear to the complete numbing.

Further on... to some more enjoyable options.

The hotel we have stayed at twice is the Uspenskaya Inn. It's a 19th century building, originally Trading Arcade. It still houses some interesting watch shops on the ground floor. The hotel faces the central square. Most sights and museums are a 5 minute walk from it. The City Council is opposite.
There is a nice view of both the City Council and the Central Square from room number 211. It's surprisingly spacious, clean, cosy.

Prices range from 1700 roubles(a bit less than 60 dollars) on week days to 2100 roubles (70 dollars) on public holidays and weekends, an unsubstantial breakfast included. It's not worth getting up early to be in time for 2 tiny pancakes, a coffee, crudely cut sandwiches. Relax and sleep longer, your wallet will not be abused too much if you order some salad, eggs, or whatever you like in the morning: the restaurant on the ground floor has a very friendly, welcoming price policy.
Rooms' prices here.

My breakfast at the Uspenskaya Inn.

that's our breakfast check 

tea in a pot costs 72 roubles (about 2.5 dollars)

Vinegret (beetroot salad) 40 roubles (1.5 dollars)

Martini  120 roubles 

Vegetable Soup 84 roubles (3 dollars)

Pancakes with cottage cheese 60 roubles (2 dollars) 

That's appalling! A bit of honey for the pancakes cost us 96 roubles! Unheard-of! 

There is a pot of pelmeni served with sour cream and zapekanka, a Russian cheese cake. Pelmeni in the morning is the best meal for me and zapekanka - for my husband. Russian zapekanka is much tastier than hackneyed cheesecakes since it's more like roast cottage cheese, there is more flavor.  Zapekanka costs 72 roubles, and pelmeni - 120 roubles.

The Moskva Hotel can be seen in the photo below. It's more expensive than the Uspenskaya. I don't know why it is so, we've dropped in in order to see the sauna once. The lobby gave an impression of a Soviet Sanatorium crowded with people. It seemed crammed with staircases and pool tables not giving even a hint of coziness. The price of a standard double room here.  They often resort to different kinds of discount sales promotion. The building is as ugly from the outside as it is inside.

However, the view of the Volga is certainly an advantage. They also have a day spa.

My favourite and most expensive of all Uglich hotels is the Volzhskaya Riviera. Overlooking the Volga, lavishly furnished it has an atmosphere of luxury to offer to its visitors.

The lobby is cozy and inviting, the chandelier  is glittering in the evening contributing to the relaxing atmosphere. There is a little cafe with unforgettable Russian pirozhky in the lobby.We've dropped in there for a coffee once or twice.

The restaurant also overlooks the river. It's cozy and neat. And here a slip up occurs... We dined there once and, apart from the coziness of the restaurant, there was nothing worthy of mentioning.  Some Caesar  salad with a lot of mayonnaise, ordinary soup. Deserts were also nothing to write home about.  The prices are relatively high. They are just a little lower than in Moscow, an overpriced place with rather common cuisine.

The sauna in the Riviera where we went since it's cheaper than in Moscow is spacious and clean and has everything to enjoy it except for slippers. You may try asking for disposable slippers but in order to get them we had to really ask for them, almost beg for them. It's not so pleasant to walk there barefoot.


 a sauna-spa evening "in the lap of luxury."